Shed plans that start from a cut list, not a sketch
Most free shed plans online show one drawing and a materials list that says "lumber as needed." Shed Cut List works the other way: you pick a footprint, a roof and a door, and a framing engine works out the actual wall studs, floor skids, rafters and panels for that exact building, packed onto real 8, 10 and 12 ft lumber and 4x8 ft sheet goods.
Every plan includes a dimensioned start-here page, a cut list that packs your lumber onto stock lengths with the offcut shown per board, a panel layout broken out by siding, floor decking, roof sheathing and door panel, a step-by-step assembly order generated straight from the geometry, a full bill of materials as a JSON file, and an editable-price shopping-list spreadsheet for pricing it at your own store.
Try the free Shed Material Calculator to see the lumber, panels and estimated cost for any size before buying, get the free 8x8 Lean-To Shed Plan, or go straight to a paid parametric plan, style bundle or full bundle.
Six closed footprints are supported: 8x8, 8x10, 10x10, 10x12, 12x12 and 12x16, each with a gable or lean-to roof (lean-to is offered up to 10x10, since a deeper lean-to rafter would exceed a 12 ft board) and a single or double door. Framing follows 16 in stud centers with spans in line with published span tables; this site does not replace your local building permit or setback check, see the FAQ for exactly what the engine checks.
How it works
- Pick a footprint from 8x8 to 12x16 ft, based on what must fit and how much clear floor you want
- Pick a roof: gable on every size, lean-to on the three shallower ones
- Pick a single or double door, and which wall it belongs on
- Download a plan whose cut list, panel layout and shopping list match that exact building
What makes a plan buildable
Three things that most free plans skip. Finished lengths for every member, so nothing has to be scaled off a drawing. Splices located in the plan for any board longer than stock, so the lumber list matches what the yard sells. And a shopping list grouped by those stock lengths, so you buy the right count of 8, 10 and 12 ft boards instead of guessing and returning half of them.
Try it before paying
The 8x8 lean-to plan is free and complete, and the material calculator returns the full bill of materials for any size and roof without a purchase. Between the two you can see exactly what a paid plan contains and what your build will cost at your own local lumber prices.
Work sequence from download to first wall
Print the start page, the cut list, and the panel pages before buying material. Keep the shopping spreadsheet on your phone or on paper at the yard, but cut from the printed cut list in the shop. Mark each board with a pencil code before it is cut, then mark each finished piece again after cutting. A simple code such as W1S for wall 1 stud or R7 for rafter 7 prevents mixing similar lengths.
Buy the stock lengths shown by the plan, not longer boards unless the yard is out of stock. If you substitute longer lumber, keep a second note showing which original board it replaced. Otherwise the offcut logic no longer matches the printed list. Sort 8 ft, 10 ft, and 12 ft boards into separate piles, crown each board, and cut repeated parts with a stop block rather than measuring each one. On a small shed, this usually saves 20 to 40 minutes and removes many 1/8 in errors.
Build in this order: floor frame, floor decking, wall plates, wall studs and openings, wall sheathing or siding layout, roof framing, roof sheathing, then door parts. Check the floor diagonals before fastening decking. A floor that is 1/2 in out of square will move the error into every wall and roof cut. For a 8 ft by 10 ft floor, the diagonals should match within 1/8 in to 1/4 in before you lock the deck down.
Tools, workspace, and dimensions to check
A circular saw can cut the whole project, but a miter saw is faster for repeated studs, blocks, and rafters. Use a straightedge or saw guide for sheet goods. A chalk line is useful for laying out 16 in centers across plates and panels. You also need a tape measure that reads in 1/16 in, a framing square, level, drill or impact driver, clamps, sawhorses, pencil, and eye and hearing protection.
| Check | Target figure | When to check |
|---|---|---|
| Stud spacing | 16 in on center, measured from the same end of the plate | Before fastening studs |
| Sheet goods | 4 ft by 8 ft sheets, keep factory edges on visible outside corners when possible | Before cutting panels |
| Floor square | Opposite diagonals within 1/8 in to 1/4 in | Before floor decking is fully fastened |
| Wall plumb | Top plate within about 1/4 in over 8 ft height | Before tying adjacent walls together |
| Door rough opening | Measure width at top, middle, and bottom | Before adding trim or door panel parts |
Leave enough room to stage full sheets flat. A clear area of about 10 ft by 12 ft lets one person cut panels without turning them into the wall. Store sheet goods on flat blocking, not leaning against a fence for several days, because bowed panels are harder to align on studs. If weather is a concern, cut framing first and leave panels full size until the day they are installed.
Common mistakes and practical recovery
The most common error is cutting every matching part first, then finding that one board was meant to supply two different parts. Cut one stock board at a time as listed. If a part is cut short by 1/4 in or less and it is blocking, backing, or a non-bearing filler, it can often be held tight to the layout line and fastened normally. If it is a stud, plate, rafter, skid, or door frame member, recut it unless the plan gives a specific splice or paired member at that location.
- If a wall plate layout was marked from the wrong end, do not average the error. Cross out the marks, choose one reference end, and remark the full plate. Stud layouts must line up with panel edges.
- If the floor frame is racked, loosen corner fasteners, pull the long diagonal shorter with a strap or clamp, then fasten temporary diagonal bracing before decking.
- If a panel edge misses a stud by less than 3/4 in, add a nailer behind the joint rather than forcing the sheet sideways. Keep the panel square to the frame.
- If a rafter pattern is wrong, stop after the first test piece. Fit the pattern on the shed, correct it, then cut the remaining rafters from the corrected template.
- If lumber is badly crowned, place the crown up in floor joists and rafters, and reject twisted pieces for door parts or long plates.
Do not fix a short structural part by relying on screws in end grain alone. Add proper bearing, recut the part, or use the splice location shown in the plan. When in doubt about what the generator checks and what must be confirmed locally, read the FAQ before cutting.
Special cases before you choose a plan
Pick the footprint by door swing, storage depth, and the longest item that must go inside. A mower, bikes, or 8 ft boards need more clear length than their nominal size because handles, wheels, and turning room add several inches. If the shed will sit near a fence, leave enough space to fasten siding and roof edges safely. A tight 12 in gap may look acceptable on paper but can be hard to work in with a drill and ladder.
For wet ground, plan the base before ordering lumber. The cut list covers the shed parts, but site bearing, drainage, blocks, gravel, and anchors depend on your site and local rules. For windy locations, open fields, or coastal sites, confirm anchoring and permit requirements before building. The framing plan is only one part of the complete installation.
If you want to compare sizes without redrawing anything, use the generated options under plans and check the material output for each footprint. Compare panel count, roof style, and door choice together, because a small change in wall or roof geometry can change how sheets land on framing. Choose the plan only after the storage layout, site access, and local checks all fit the same size.